The Gobi was beautiful, ugly, magical and bleak all at the same time. We had an amazing guide and driver so it was a fantastic trip. I'm sore and still tired, but thankful for the experience. True to my word, here is a picture of me on a camel. I named him Roger. He kept me warm while out on the sandy dunes. The camels have a stick that has been driven through their nose in order to steer them. I was assured it did not hurt them. Later in the trip I had the opportunity to buy a pair of camel wool knit gloves. Camels are just like cows, they just do as you say, however, they seem to have more personality than you'd think! In a sense they are like horses. They are a formidable animal though and so alien, much like the Gobi. Our guide that day had the right idea. He had these specialized goggles he wore.

Our tour guide was named Nora and the driver, Dabaa. He was quite the prankster and hid Colin's camera one morning in a cracker box and hid his bag in his tent another. Colin was asking, "Has anyone seen my camera? I left it right here!" The next morning he was asking Nora, "What happened to my bag?" I still don't know if she was playing along with Dabaa or not, but she feigned concern, "Oh my, where is your bag?" She asked Dabaa and he said he had no idea. Next thing you know, he's smiling at you and producing the item in question. He pulled a fast one on me, too. I had found this amazing horse skull and had planned on showing it to my students. He told me he left it behind and I said that was okay as I had forgotten about it and still feel that if you can't keep track of your things you don't deserve to have them. He let me go for hours truly disappointed in the fact that I had left this amazing specimen behind. Then, he turned to Nora and had her ask me if I was still upset about the skull. I, of course said no, and he said "Good, because I've had it all along." I had to say I'd belive it when I saw it, but true to his word it was there. He had an interesting abnormality. Usually when you see people with extra fingers they are beside the pinkie. His was on his thumb. He also got into a bit of a fender bender on the way home but true to Mongolian form, no one stopped or even cared it had occured.

Dabaa drove us around in this Russian van. It was very much so all-terrain. He enjoyed scaring us at the Flamming Cliffs. He would pretend to nearly drive off the cliff and then just stop. We stayed there for a bit, walking around and looking at the merchandise for sale. A man there had petrified wood, dinasour bones where if you stick your tongue to, it sticks, and traditional Mongolian games. I bought a crystal for 1,000 TG in memory of Michael. When I picked it up, it just felt right.

The craziest part of that day was this. We were perched periously close to the edge of the cliff, victim's of Dabaa's joking again. I was heard to say while he started the van, "Don't roll forward, please don't roll forward." The van reminded me much of my first VW van and knew that if you weren't careful, it would roll forward during starting. The next thing we knew, we were driving over the cliff! We were all in shock and couldn't believe what was happening. In the end, Dabaa has forged a new road and we camped at the base of the amazing Flamming Cliffs. It was beautiful. On another day he just jumped out of the car while it was still driving, giving us a bit of a scare but we also realized that there was nothing anywhere to hit or even see.

Nora was so sweet and thoughtful. She understood early into the trip that some things I ate were not good for me and asked what I could and couldn't eat. Then, she took special care and I felt badly as she had so much work to do otherwise. It was difficult to explain that no matter what I ate, I probably would still be experiencing the same issues. She is 31 and unmarried. An anomoly by Mongolian standards to be sure. She was very knowledgeable and informed us if our behavior was disrespectful. I learned so much about the culture from her. The first thing she taught us was the fact that gers are divided up into sections based on the directions north, south, east and west. South is always where the door faces. East is the wife's section and that is where the kitchen supplies are to be found (though still no can openers!). North is the section for the husband and children and west is saved for the guests. The family will go to a monk to discern, in a Feng Shui manner, where their sacred part it. It is usually either north-east, or -west. It is considered extremely rude to point your feet in this direction. Also, in the ger, there are two posts in the centre. They represent the husband and wife. You never cross them, ever.

Nora also taught me about the fire. Mongolians worship the sky and fire. It was apparently rude of me to put my snotty tissue into the fire. I thought I was saving garbage but it was, again, disrespectful. They have five colours they use for the ovo's. Blue represents the sky, white is purity, yellow is the colour of the Lamas and religion, red is fire and green signifies nature. During the Soviet regime many monastaries were destroyed. People still hold faith though and that is heartening. We had to be careful though to not make any faux pas. Andrew learned by accidentally pointing his feet toward the sacred place in the ger (you must always point your head that way. They also believe that if you keep your head pointed north while you slept it was good for your mind) and I learned by the whole kleenex thing.

We saw many wild animals. Initally we were so excited to see horses, goats and camels but toward the end of the trip we had seen so many. In order to water their animals the herdsmen have to bring them to a watering hole. It is a well with troughs where water must be drawn up. A cold job in the winter. We encountered many different types of terrains. Here are more of the granite mountains and valleys. There was also this amazing sand dune that was about 100 to 125km long and about 25km width wise. It may not look like much but Maureen and I, both being afraid of heights, did not make it up to the top. It was very steep and tough going. Also, it did not help we were walking in the trails of Colin and Andrew. Once the integrity of the sand was broken that make it much more difficult. I saw 3 spiders, and those of you who know me, that was more than enough. One was a baby and inside the tent one morning. Thankfully, Maureen got it for me. We were lucky enough that it was a full moon during our trip. It was also beautiful. I tried to take a picture but my camera did not do it justice, I feel.

One night I was out by myself. Nora and Dabaa both came to collect me. I told them that like we need to charge our iPods and such, I was recharging by the moonlight. They informed me there were wolves out that night and I had to come in. I figured I was singing so loudly and poorly that no wolf would be bothered with me, but in I went to make them more comfortable.

It was not such a difficult journey as we had most of the comforts of home, save for beds, heat, and bathrooms. I definately have started to feel my age, especially in my knees. Colin and Andrew are still in their mid-twenties, but considering the life I've led I think I managed pretty well. I am sore, I believe due to sitting in the van and then just getting out and hiking. I wound up going on strike from the back seat as my knee got so bad. I sat back there quietly for most of the trip but toward the end I just couldn't take it. I felt badly as poor Maureen ended up back there for the last of the trip simply because she has shorter legs than us. Nora has the smallest though and Moe was pleased that she was actually taller than someone her age, finally. She said one of her students is taller than her. I have a massage on the slate for today, along with a body scrub. No matter how many times I cleaned my hands with my wet nap type things, there was always more dirt. I took a hot bath last night and there was a sand pit at the bottom of the tub when I had finished. My iPod was a much appreciated ammenity (thanks Mom!) as there was much driving and little talking.

This is one of my favourite pics I took. I have little memory space compared to my other travellers so when I took something I tried to make it worth while. Definately an amazing trip and I am very glad I decided to go. Doogie warned me not to return more tired than I was before I left, but I think after a restful day today I should be in ship-shape form. Those of you who are on Facebook can see all my photos. It is long and difficult to post them here. Why, I don't know, however, if you're interested the rest are there.